The analysis of evolutions in Italian men's wear, in Cinzia Capalbo's essay, including via the study of previously unseen documentary collections, reconstructs such themes in relation to international men's clothing fashions. In particular, on the strength of centuries of professional traditions, Italian men's tailoring in the early decades of the 20th century began to take its first steps into the English style which dominated international men's fashion for the whole of the 19th century. Her in-depth study focuses on Gruppo Brioni which attempted to respond to fashion demands from consumers looking for relatively affordable prices without sacrificing high tailoring standards in the late 1950s and early 1960s and put into practice its plan for a new type of firm capable of combining artisan experience and industrial manufacturing.